Bodice fitting is the most technically demanding aspect of large-bust costume construction. Mastering the full bust adjustment and related techniques unlocks every fitted costume design.
Understanding Bodice Fit
A well-fitted bodice sits smoothly against the body without pulling, gaping, or buckling. The side seams should hang straight from underarm to waist. The bust dart or princess seam should point toward the bust apex. The neckline and armhole should sit at their intended positions without pulling. On a standard-cup figure, commercial patterns achieve this with minimal adjustment. On a large or augmented bust, achieving the same result requires deliberate fitting work — but the same standards apply.
The Full Bust Adjustment — Step by Step
(1) Measure your full bust and underbust. (2) Compare to the pattern's measurements at those points. (3) The difference between your full bust and the pattern's full bust (for your underbust size) equals the total FBA amount — divide by 2 for the adjustment to one pattern piece. (4) On the front bodice piece: draw a line from the bust apex toward the side seam (parallel to grain); draw another line from the bust apex toward the shoulder. (5) Cut both lines; spread the piece by the required amount at the side seam line. (6) Add tissue paper in the gap; redraw the cutting lines smoothly. (7) Test in inexpensive fabric before cutting your fashion fabric.
Building In Support
For convention-duration wear, built-in support is essential for large busts. Techniques: Boning channel at underbust: Sew a channel along the underbust seam of the bodice lining and insert a wire or bone — this provides lift from below. Foam cups: Sew foam bra cups into the bodice lining — they provide shape and support simultaneously. Sling support: A fabric sling stitched from one side seam, over the bust, to the other side seam inside the bodice lining — distributes weight. The combination of an FBA for fit and built-in support for function produces a bodice that both fits and functions for extended wear.
Frequently Asked Questions
A full bust adjustment (FBA) modifies a bodice pattern to add circumference at the bust apex without changing the underbust or shoulder measurements. It's the foundational alteration for fitting any bodice to a large bust.
Sew underwire channels or bone channels into the bodice lining at the underbust. Foam bra cups sewn into the lining provide both shape and support. A combination of both works best for extended wear.
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